Earthly paradise

Exquisite gardens and restored historical edifices around Hangzhou’s West Lake recall its past as the finest city in the world.

With a population of over a million, Hangzhou was then the largest and wealthiest metropolis in existence. Marco Polo reportedly called it “the finest and noblest city in the world”.

Bai Causeway (Baidi), constructed 1,200 years ago by Tang dynasty poet-governor Bai Juyi.

Many still consider Hangzhou the most beautiful city in China, though when I first visited in the late-1990s, it seemed that every important cultural or historical site had been ravaged by the Cultural Revolution and the city was still struggling to put itself together.

Ten years on and with an urban population of just under 4 million, 2,200-year-old Hangzhou is well on its way to regaining its former status as a “heaven on earth,” especially since much has been done to restore or reconstruct the sites around the iconic West Lake (Xihu). Among them is the thousand-year-old Leifeng Pagoda (Leifengta) where Madam White Snake of the Ming dynasty novel Legend of the White Snake was trapped by monk Fahai. The structure collapsed in 1924 because, according to our guide, people removed the bricks thinking they contained hidden gold; others say the rural folk believed the bricks could cure illness and prevent miscarriage.

A few years ago, Leifengta was rebuilt over the original foundations which have been preserved in a gallery under the new tower. I noted with mixed emotions the contemporary interior and “improvements” that have made the pagoda, which sits on a small hill, more accessible but which have also deprived it of its ancient character.

Leifengta (in the background) viewed from the grounds of the 10th century Jingci Chan (Zen) Temple. Legend says monk Jigong drew wood from a well for the temple’s construction.

Another significant site is a shrine dedicated to the larger-than-life national hero, General Yuefei, whose 12th century exploits against the Jin invaders of the north have been celebrated in innumerable stories, plays and operas. Yuefei was on the verge of victory when he was recalled by the southern Song Emperor, framed and executed together with his son. The official Qin Hui who advocated negotiating with the enemy was instrumental to his death.

A commemorative plaque with the words “Return our rivers and mountains” emblazoned in gold hangs above a large statue of the much-loved general in the memorial temple. From there a small side gate leads to the modest mausoleum of Yuefei (Yuefeimu) and his son, their high status evidenced only by stone figurines that flank the way to the burial mounds.

Iron sculptures of the traitorous Qin Hui and wife – half-naked and with hands bound behind them – kneel facing the tombs in eternal humiliation and penance. Such was the ire of the people that they made dough sticks to represent the reviled couple and fried them for breakfast; thus was invented the youtiao or, in Cantonese, yau-zha-guai (oil-fried devil).

It appears that nearly nine centuries after Yuefei’s death, anger against the couple has not abated. A sign above the kneeling statues tell people not to spit (on them); there was a patch on Qin Hui’s head where someone had drilled a hole and I was startled when a young man strode up and whacked the “traitor” with a rolled-up newspaper.

Traitors Qin Hui and wife do eternal penance.

The entire Jiangnan region south of the Yangtze River is home to numerous garden villas where landscaping has been raised to a fine art. However, few have the Guo Villa’s advantage of location on the West Lake. Our guide said this elegant mid-19th century manor used to be the residence of the Duke of Fenyang, hence its alternative name Fenyang Bieshu.

With sweeping grey roofs, white walls, unembellished windows and wooden arched bridges, the estate is exceptionally beautiful. Graceful pavilions extend over tranquil ponds amidst gardens so lush they partially obscure the architecture and the indispensable rock arrangements.

It was quiet that day at Fenyang Bieshu, with few tourists. A white duck napped on a rock in a brook; every view through the picture windows in the garden walls was postcard perfect, and there, beyond a gazebo surrounded by camellia bushes, the waters of the famous Lake.

Our guide said plans are under way to expand the West Lake as historical records show it used to be much larger.

Meanwhile, a Dec 11, 2008, China Daily article reported that to preserve the natural beauty of the area, lakeside buildings over 24m tall will be lowered. The city’s ultimate objective is to list the West Lake as a Unesco World Heritage site.

The luxuriant parks around the lake were certainly gorgeous in late autumn last year. With hectares of immaculate lawns and ponds, pavilions and bridges half-concealed by willows, small red maples and endless varieties of flowering and non-flowering shrubs, it was a living coffee-table book.

I was there again recently when the pink, white and red peach blossoms were in flower. Hangzhou’s West Lake in spring is certainly as close to heaven as one can get.